IntelliShock 20B Battery Energizer

A battery fence energizer that is used for portable fence systems to keep in sheep, goats, cattle, horses and poultry. Protects livestock from coyotes, fox and raccoons. Keeps bear from destroying bee hives. Used around gardens and orchards to keep out rabbits, deer and other wildlife.

• .28 max. stored joules
• .27 max output joules
• .21 joules output in moist soils
• .25 joules in dry soils
• Will power 3000' of multi strand fence, 4 164' sheep/goat nets and 2 of the 164' poultry nets. All distances are dependent on amount of grass/weed load on the fence.
• Draws 10 mA per hour on a weed free fence. Draws 33 mA per hour on a weedy fence.
• A 12v 100 ampere hour battery will last approximately 250* days on a clean fence and 75* days on a weedy fence. *Assumes being drawn down to 40% between recharges.
• Load-sensing circuitry that reduces the energy drain from the battery by up to 70% when the air is dry and the fence is clean of weeds.
• LED light indicates if fence voltage is low.
• LED light indicates if battery is adequately charged or not.
• Sits on its own support stake. Less obvious and less prone to theft.
• Support stake doubles as a ground rod.
• Dry cell battery life will double by adding a solar panel to it.
• Includes wires for connecting to the fence and ground stake.
• Batteries and solar panels are sold separately.

Portable, lightweight and easy to move. User friendly cases. Versatile- can be used with a 9v dry cell battery or a 12v deep cycle battery, with or without a solar panel. True wide-impedance output curve. Wide-impedance units preform better over a wider range of fence conditions and conductors than standard low-impedance units. Areas where wide-impedance units excel are: high resistance conductors (stainless steel polywire/hot tape/electrified netting); minimal ground rods; livestock or wildlife with dry skin or hair (poultry, deer, goats); and very dry soils. Safe to use with all polywires, polyropes, tapes and electrified nets.

1. Connect red lead's bare wire end to fence terminal and clip other end of lead to fence
2. Connect black lead's bare wire end to ground terminal and clip other end of lead to ground rod.
3. Push black on/off button to turn on.
4. Test fence.

• Make sure the energizer is turned off before working on the fence or the energizer.
• Use on size appropriate fences.

To determine if the fault is with the fence or the energizer...

1. Test the energizer first
2. Turn off energizer.
3. Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
4. Turn energizer back on.
5. With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 1500v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 3000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).

If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them. Here's how to start this process:
If you have a Fault Finder (#133500) you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem. Note: The directional arrow of the Fault Finder is not accurate with net.

If you lack a Fault Finder…

1. Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
2. If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
3. The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.

Our unique 2-Year Warranty
If an energizer fails within 2 years from the purchase, Premier will replace the module/unit at our cost (unless the reason for its failure is customer abuse or neglect). Your credit card will be charged for the replacement but you will receive full credit when the failed item is back at Premier. Your only cost is shipping the failed item to us. If the original energizer is over 2 years old, we will repair and/or replace it, but you pay for the repair cost and freight.