Heat Lamp Bulbs
Surprisingly strong glass. Their heft (and performance) have given us confidence in their warming ability on cold winter nights.
- “Never-loose” base (See PDF file above for a side-by-side comparison.)
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Smooth Glass Infrared Bulbs
- “Never-loose” base
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt (Premier's choice) or 250 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Conventional infrared lamps are cheap—but they usually fail within a month or two. Why?
- The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.
- Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.
"Never-loose" base—they don't use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose, we will replace at no cost!
Other bulbs—attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.
Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.
- Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.
- Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.
Please read this note regarding purchase of items #557034 or #557035.
A customer has reported problems screwing PAR (pressed glass) heat lamp bulbs into our orange heat lamp fixtures—so we’ve studied this in detail.
We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).
Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.
Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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Susan S from Tennessee
The 175 watt is NOT strong enough (heat wise) for my purposes, which is to have a safe heat source for goat kids the first couple of days they are born. The light cannot be too low to the ground and it just is not strong enough for heat. I switched it out to a 250 watt and THAT is what I need.
Brian M from Michigan
So far so good been using the bulb for a few weeks now for 10 hrs a day for my dog out in the garage in his dog house and it keeps it toasty warm even in near zero temps. I know cuz i got in and tried it out for a few minutes. lol!
Michael E from Alabama
These bulbs are much stronger than the traditional bulbs for heat lamps. We have a goat farm and use these bulbs in our heat lamps for the goats. If treated very rough by the buck the threaded end can pull apart from the glass but I have not seen any shatter. Even if one has broken there is been no danger to the goats from broken glass pieces.
Ron L from Oregon
Calvin R from Texas
Have placed this most recent order on the shelf for use next Spring in my brooders. Chose the 175 watt bulbs because 250 watts is too hot for my brooders. From past experience, they do not seem to last any longer than a typical heat bulb but I've never had one come lose from the base or shatter and that makes a big difference.