Gallagher 1200i Energizer
- Peak output: 6.60 joules
- 110v AC draw: 6 watts hr
- Pulses per min: 42
- Impedance type: low
- Input: (AC) 110v plug-in
Energizer controller (included)
- Displays voltage and current readings at the energizer and for up to 6 attached fence monitors (sold separately).
- Place controller in a convenient location for instant updates (i.e. side of shed).
- Locate fault zones quickly and use the controller to turn the energizer on/off.
- Can be placed up to 160' away from the energizer.
- Fully waterproof for indoor and outdoor placement.
- Green indicator light shows when energizer is working satisfactorily.
- Red indicator light flashes when energizer has detected a fence fault. Solid red when there is a sudden increase in fence load.
- Split bolt recessed terminals with wire guide for simple and clean wire installation.
- Surface mount technology that delivers superior quality.
- On board intelligence to manage your fence system.
- High tolerance in-built power supply enables successful 230V operation on the poorest performing rural power outlets.
- Advanced lightning protection.
- Three high voltage terminals for earth, earth reference and fence terminal connections.
- Adaptive control will adjust energy levels to maintain 8.0kv output.
- Short circuit protection to ensure user safety and product reliability if the outputs are directly shorted together.
- Comes with separate Energizer Controller.
- Compatible with SMS Energizer Controller enabling alarms to be sent to phone and Alarm System (sold separately).
- Energizer can be connected to an Alarm System to notify you if there is a problem on a monitored section of fence should an electric gate be opened or wire cut. Alarm is sent to controller, remote or your phone (via SMS Energizer Controller). Alarm System can drive siren and strobe lights (all sold separately
- Connect insulated cable (stripped back 1 - 2" on ends) to the fence terminal on energizer, run the cable to the fence line and connect.
- Then run a second length of cable from the ground terminal (with ends stripped again) on the energizer to the ground rod.
- Secure to ground rod with a clamp.
- Plug into outlet and test fence. Unit indicator light should flash and a tic-tac sound will be heard. If the voltage drops below 2000v, the indicator light will not flash.
- Test the energizer first
- Turn off energizer.
- Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
- Turn energizer back on.
- With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 4000v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 4000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).
- Check that the 110v outlet is "live" by using a plug-in drill or test light.
- If the test light works and the energizer does not, call Premier.
If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them. Here's how to start this process:
If you have a Fault Finder you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem.
If you lack a Fault Finder…
- Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
- If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
- The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.
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