Heat Lamp Bulbs
Surprisingly strong glass. Their heft (and performance) have given us confidence in their warming ability on cold winter nights.
- “Never-loose” base (See PDF file above for a side-by-side comparison.)
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Smooth Glass Infrared Bulbs
- “Never-loose” base
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt (Premier's choice) or 250 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Conventional infrared lamps are cheap—but they usually fail within a month or two. Why?
- The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.
- Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.
"Never-loose" base—they don't use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose, we will replace at no cost!
Other bulbs—attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.
Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.
- Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.
- Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.
Please read this note regarding purchase of items #557034 or #557035.
A customer has reported problems screwing PAR (pressed glass) heat lamp bulbs into our orange heat lamp fixtures—so we’ve studied this in detail.
We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).
Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.
Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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Kay O from Texas
Bulb went into lamp with no problem. got the 175 watt, and it is perfect heat for small coop with 4 chickens. the chickens seemed comfortable. I'd buy again. great product. absolutely flawless.
Jon E from Maine
These bulbs are great. Not the super high wattage 250, which are overkill and more expensive to run. Only been using them for two weeks for chicks in brooder, but flawless so far!
Tara F from NY
Thus far great. Been using these in our chicken coop to keep the waterer frost-free and the eggs unfrozen. Works great and I think it'll last for a lot longer than the common bulbs that I have to replace every season when the bulb falls away in my hand.
By far the most robust bulb I seen in awhile. You have to be careful not to over torque them into the base because they seem so strong (and heavy) that you want to crank them down tight. But really, a great product.
Elisabeth M from North Carolina
I spent the extra money on these supposedly better lamp bulbs hoping for safety in several areas as advertised. During the third night I used them to transition two motherless kids from my house to the barn the first bulb burned out. I expect Premier will replace them as a couple other people have mentioned, and fortunately my kids were OK, but the failure of this product endangered my vulnerable animals. I am not happy and not sure whether to trust them again.
Duane W from NY/Central
Bulbs still going after a couple of kidding seasons.