Heat Lamp Bulbs
Surprisingly strong glass. Their heft (and performance) have given us confidence in their warming ability on cold winter nights.
- “Never-loose” base (See PDF file above for a side-by-side comparison.)
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Smooth Glass Infrared Bulbs
- “Never-loose” base
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt (Premier's choice) or 250 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Conventional infrared lamps are cheap—but they usually fail within a month or two. Why?
- The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.
- Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.
"Never-loose" base—they don't use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose, we will replace at no cost!
Other bulbs—attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.
Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.
- Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.
- Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.
Please read this note regarding purchase of items #557034 or #557035.
A customer has reported problems screwing PAR (pressed glass) heat lamp bulbs into our orange heat lamp fixtures—so we’ve studied this in detail.
We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).
Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.
Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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Alana D from Oregon
I have been raising chickens for most of my life and always used the old, 250 watt heat bulbs. After talking with a friend of mine about these bulbs and seeing the obvious quality, I decided to get a few. I am very impressed with the quality craftsmanship and the fact that they are 175 watt instead (a little easier on the pennies!), they are designed to not break apart at the base and the company stands behind their product with an amazing warranty! My babies have been toasty warm and I haven't needed to adjust the height or placement of the lamp fixture because they are too warm.
Judy H from Texas
This lamp is just perfect for keeping my new little puppies warm. The light is soft and red and puts out just the right amount of heat depending on hanging it lower or higher. Im sure I'll use this lamp and bulbs for many years to come.
The only bulb that does what it's supposed to do: stay in the fixture and stay intact. Great for the Premier heat lamps for newborn lambs!
rodney b from Illinois
They are constructed a lot better than the box store bulbs also last longer.
Audrey D from Washington
I am pleased to have a choice on which wattage bulbs I can purchase. During a year I need both. These appear to be more sturdy.
I have just started using the 175 watt red and hope the metal base doesn't melt and separate like the cheaper bulbs.