IntelliShock 506 Energizer
It's our best plug-in energizer for fences in high resistance conditions. Even on lower-resistance fences, the joules it delivered to the end of the fence were often double that provided by other 5-joule units. The 506 is excellent for repelling hard-to-stop deer herds that are "addicted" to vegetables, trees and shrubs in commercial fruit and vegetable acres.
In our field tests, no plug-in unit (not even some with 30 stored joules) matched the 506 for energizing fences that had high circuit resistances (dry/snow/rocky/sandy soils and animals with high internal resistances such as deer, goats and rabbits).
- 6.5 stored joules
- 5 released joules
- 4.1 output joules in moist soils
- 4 output joules in dry soils
- Requires at least 8-15 feet of ground rod in the ground.
- Draws 22 watts per hour.
- 48 pulses per minute.
- 4' cord
- 2 prong plug
- Features an output level 1 terminal for low resistance fences and a level 5 output terminal for high resistance fences.
- Features an 'end fence' terminal that allows you to check the voltage at the end of the fence line.
- 19,500' of weed laden fence.
- 14-18 rolls of 164' net
- 14-18 rolls of 100' QuikFence All distances are dependent on amount of grass/weed load on the fence.
- Connect insulated cable (stripped back 1 - 2" on ends) to the fence terminal on energizer, run the cable to the fence line and connect.
- Then run a second length of cable from the ground terminal (with ends stripped again) on the energizer to the ground rod.
- Secure to ground rod with a clamp.
- Plug into outlet and test fence. Unit indicator light should flash and a tic-tac sound will be heard. If the voltage drops below 2000v, the indicator light will not flash.
- Warning: Powerful high joule unit. Use with caution. Do not use with fences near children, visitors or the public.
- When working on the fence, make sure the energizer is unplugged before working on the fence or the energizer.
To Reduce Risk & Liability
- Never place your head or upper spine near an electrified wire. Accidental head or neck contact can occur when pushing a voltage probe into the soil. Be careful when doing so to avoid head-to-wire contact!
- Never attempt to step over or climb through an energized fence of any kind.
- Never encourage anyone to touch an electric fence.
- Test the energizer first
- Turn off energizer.
- Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
- Turn energizer back on.
- With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 4000v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 4000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).
- Check that the 110v outlet is "live" by using a plug-in drill or test light.
- If the test light works and the energizer does not, call Premier.
If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them. Here's how to start this process:
If you have a Fault Finder you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem.
If you lack a Fault Finder…
- Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
- If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
- The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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This is, by far, the best charger I have ever used (and boy, have I used a bunch of them!) The wide impedence is an answer to prayer, as we fight dual problems of lots of weeds and rock hard ground that is often bone dry. (I don't know how we got blessed with both drought and weeds, but we've got it!). We energize approximately 20 miles of aluminum medium-tensile wire, plus somewhere around 20 of Premier's electrified netting rolls, and it is a sad day when we accidentally touch the fence. The warning to keep children and visitors away is quite appropriate.
You absolutely cannot spend money better on an energizer, if you need one for a lot of fence. I will never buy any other charger again.
Thank you, Premier and horizont for solving all my electric fencing woes!