Kube 4000 Energizer
The Kube 4000 plug-in unit is economic and wide-impedance. That means it produces unusually high pulse outputs in fences over dry soils. It performs better than standard low-impedance units during dry/snowy seasons and on fences for deer, poultry and goats.
It's proven, over the past 5 years, to offer reliability and excellent value.
- 3 stored joules
- 2.3 released joules
- 1.9 output joules in moist soils
- 1.24 output joules in dry soils
- Requires 6 ft. of ground rod in the ground
- 4.5 watts drawn per hour
- 48 pulses per minute
- 6' cord
- 2 prong plug
- Simple. No fancy "bells and whistles."
- Modular. Very easy to repair.
Should power... *
- 3 miles of 3 strand cattle fence.
- 1 mile of 5-7 strand sheep fence.
- 15 rolls of 164' sheep/goat nets and 7 rolls of 164' PoultryNet.
* All distances are dependent on amount of grass/weed load on the fence.
- Connect insulated cable (stripped back 1 - 2" on ends) to the fence terminal on energizer, run the cable to the fence line and connect.
- Then run a second length of cable from the ground terminal (with ends stripped again) on the energizer to the ground rod.
- Secure to ground rod with a clamp.
- Plug into outlet and test fence. Unit indicator light should flash and a tic-tac sound will be heard. If the indicator light doesn't flash, then the unit should be serviced.
- Test the energizer first.
- Turn off energizer.
- Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
- Turn energizer back on.
- With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 4000v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 4000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).
If the energizer is faulty and it is a 110 volt plug-in unit…
- Check that the 110v outlet is "live" by using a plug-in drill or test light.
- If the test light works and the energizer does not, call Premier.
If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them.
If you have a Fault Finder you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem.
If you lack a Fault Finder…
- Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
- If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
- The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.
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Katrina B from Owosso Mi
works great ! I grounded it and ran the coated wire out to the fence and it was way up to a 6 on my fence tester -- I guess that is pretty good - I hope the horses can hear it as I have a horse is fearless but I haven't seen any thing - works for the sheep too -- who I really bought it for..
Duncan M from Maine
Some years ago I bought a Hotshock 600 to replace a 20+ year old Premier energizer(925 I think). The Hotshock 600 wasn't quite enough so I bought the Kube 4000 planning to split our fences. It turns out the Kube unit is plenty by itself. Day in day out it is a stronger energizer than the Hotshock 600 and has got to be the best value in an energizer anywhere.
Susan L from Eastern New York/Western Connecticut
As soon as we plugged the Kube in, the voltage on the Premier 1 fence was at 6000! Now I am confident my hens will not have any predators trying to get into their safe zone. Had used other named product before, but I was not as confident as this one. I now feel comfortable moving them out into the cow pasture to rotate around in their movable coop after the cows have been there. Will be buying 2 more in the next few months!!!
Paige S from Arizona
In fairness to the product, there is no 'problem' with it. HOWEVER, I do wish that someone had told me how many extras I would be needing to purchase/do in order to get my fence working at a voltage to keep coyotes out do to Arizona conditions. I am giving it one star for the extra time and money I spent (am spending daily in water)to make it work. The dryness of Arizona soil meant running more grounding wires, live strands, and a soaker hose around the hole perimeter in order to get the voltage I needed to ward off coyotes. Aside from the original purchase of the fence and energizer, I probably spent an additional $250 to make the fence work properly. Oh, and there was NO WAY I was sinking a grounding rod into my ground 3 feet down. I ended up painstakingly pounding two 1.5' rods in and running drip lines to them. Lots of more water usage to make this product work than I would have thought. This all said, however, it does seem to be putting enough juice out now. So again, the low star rating is due to my location/dry soil issues.
Edwin D from Idaho, high mountain desert.
We have very dry rocky conditions with dry snow. Since the KUBE 4000 came to our aid there has been a lot less worry about bucks crossing into the doe pens.
Dixsigns Romping Rock Dairy