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Estimating fence costs
Author: Jennifer 
Date:   02-25-05 10:26

What is the best way to estimate fencing costs? Need to fence a 20 acre plot with permanent perimeter fence for sheep and horses. We would like to use the woven HT in combination with hot smooth HT as suggested for sheep, will use T posts rather than wooden except for corners. Is my "guess-timate" of 4000 ft of fence close for 20 acres?

Thanks!

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RE: Estimating fence costs
Author: Scott 
Date:   02-25-05 17:06

Jennifer
Your guess-timate of 4000' of perimeter would be accurate if your 20 acres is half of a square (1320'x1320') 40 acres. Otherwise the perimeter will need to be measured. The estimating on the cost will vary dependant on posts (type,cost & spacing), gates and other ends. Type of woven & smooth wire (and/or rope for visibility) to be used. Because of steel prices the cost per foot in our fencing catalog (2004) have changed they will need to be modified as required. You can always call and we can work up a material list based of your requirements (length,post spacing etc.) to get an estimated cost.

Thanks
Scott

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RE: Estimating fence costs
Author: Royal A. Purdy 
Date:   02-26-05 08:02

Jennifer,

Yes, Scott

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RE: Estimating fence costs
Author: corey_lawson 
Date:   03-19-05 01:02

We put in 1800' of the green HT woven wire for our pasture last summer, with 8'x6" treated wooden posts for corners and gates, and 8'x4-5" wooden posts every 16'. At least here in the Willamette Valley, OR, we can get the 4-5" posts for about the same price each as an 8' heavy duty T-Post right now. I figured that to be smart with T-posts I would want to put them every 8-10', (the fence guy talked me out of every 25' for the wood posts, as per the catalog...), I think it worked out to be about the same price overall if I pounded in the T-posts vs the fence guy pounding in the wood posts and building the braces. The post pounder worked just fine, even in the dry soil in August.

I put in the woven wire myself (literally). To help make it easier, I made a kind of a vertical lazy suzan (two 1/2"x12"dia plywood rounds) with 4 dolly wheels, a 2" hole in the center of both pieces of wood, a T-bar and a good piece of 2" PVC pipe, to vertically hold the wire roll, and pulled it out from there. It was a little bit dorky after getting about 100-150' out, but I was able to do it. At the time, the dry weed load was pretty good, and I did not relish the thought of kicking the roll of wire out, only to have it roll back up again, either. The HT woven wire is pretty springy, much more so than the non-HT woven wire. Much easier to put the 36" roll on my contraption than a 48" roll!

The HT woven wire is pretty tough to wrap. Get a wire wrapping tool (a 2-4" piece of metal, with a couple of holes drilled in it slightly bigger than 12-1/2 ga., and wrap the wire with that. Also, give yourself at least a foot of "whip" when wrapping the ends around a corner post. It's easy to take the extra away, but not add it back in...

For cutting it, I bought two fencing tools. The first one I bought, was the cheapest one at the feed store. I didn't want to pay $45 for the Crescent one. Well, the first time I tried to cut HT with the cheapo one, I about wrecked the cutter. The Crescent one is hardened enough. Or, a small set of bolt cutters will work as well.

To join the pieces, do clamp both ends together, either with a woven wire clamp and puller, or with 2x4's bolted together to do the same thing. At least for me, using the sleeves and crimper could be a 3-handed job at times. And, of course, the joins I made sucked (but work), and the couple I thought I did good don't look much better, either.

No offense to Premier, but buy what you can locally. Shipping is kind of expensive. *:)

The fence is working, and I think it's going to be working for 50 years.

It's also nice to be able to step over the wire, instead of find a gate...

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RE: Estimating fence costs
Author: Elzi 
Date:   04-03-05 10:26

I read your post with interest for several reasons (firstly, I'm from Willamette Valley, OR, too, transplanted to Texas). I am doing most of the fencing renovation project myself, with help from the neighbor for the perimeter fence which adjoins our property (but I'm paying for the materials).

For the perimeter fence, I'm alternating 4"d PT posts with steel T-posts every 10' oc. The end posts, already in place, are steel posts cemented in. I'm setting 6"d vertical PT posts for bracing the corners. Still trying to figure out how to connect the end of the 3 1/2"d horizontal PT posts to the end steel posts. If anyone has ideas, I'd like to read them.

Since I will be stringing the 48" mesh fencing myself or with another woman, I'm very interested in your vertical 'lazy susan.' Do you have a digital picture or diagram of this?

I am constructing a puller probably similar to yours and that which we used fencing the 20A in OR: 2 2x4's bolted toether, sandwiching the mesh wire inbetween, with two chains attached at the top and ends joined, then another chain used to attach to a come-a-long. This is attached to a truck bumper or tractor for stabilization.

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RE: Estimating fence costs
Author: Scott 
Date:   04-12-05 10:24

Elzi
When using steel on fencing projects the problem has always been "how do we fasten to the steel"? Unless you have access to a portable welder fastening to steel is very difficult. Our vertical lazy susan? dig picture Can you provide a Specific item number for that.

Thanks
Scott
sneil@premier1supplies.com

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