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which energizer?
Author: Heidi 
Date:   11-06-14 13:37

I have the longer, taller electronet poultry fence and a farm store bought energizer. Not much shock there. The chickens are not a bit impressed. What should I get to keep the chickens in and the coyotes out?

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Re: which energizer?
Author: Sara 
Date:   11-06-14 15:02

To determine if the fault is with the fence or the energizer...

Test the energizer first
Turn off energizer.
Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
Turn energizer back on.
With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 1500v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 3000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).

If the energizer is faulty and it's a 110 volt plug-in unit ...

Check that the 110v outlet is "live" by using a plug-in drill or test light.
If the test light works and the energizer does not, call Premier.

If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them. Here's how to start this process:
If you have a Fault Finder you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem.

If you lack a Fault Finder…
Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.

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