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Chicken Coop Ladders

Product Details

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★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Read reviews »

New! A simple aid for birds that need a safer way up or down. This ladder helps chickens access elevated roosts, nest boxes and coop doors. Especially useful for heavy breeds, young birds or aging hens.

  • Provides gradual, secure footing between the ground and elevated areas
  • Works with most coops, henhouses and raised openings
  • Hardware included (eye bolts and hooks) for quick installation on nearly any henhouse

A practical upgrade that makes elevated access easier for your flock.

  • Chicken Ladder, short (29.5" length)

    Item #540210 | Weight 3.50 lbs
    In Stock
    $23.00
  • Chicken Ladder, long (45.25" length)

    Item #540211 | Weight 5.25 lbs
    In Stock
    $33.00
Data
Accessories
Reviews

Specs

  • Available Sizes:
    • Short: 29.50"L × 7"W × 0.75"H
    • Long: 45.25"L × 7"W × 0.75"H (hinged)
  • Distance between rungs: 4"
  • Material: Pine (untreated)
  • Included hardware: (2) eye bolts and (2) hooks


Common Questions

Do my chickens need a ladder?
If your coop door or pop hole is elevated, a ladder can help. Heavy breeds and chickens with clipped wings often struggle with doors higher than 18". Chickens rely on both jumping and wing flapping to enter and exit; limited lift can lead to missed jumps or awkward landings.

Coops with doors only 6–12" off the ground usually don’t need a ladder. There’s no harm in using a ramp at that height, but many chickens will simply hop in and out instead.

What’s the best angle for a chicken ladder?
Shallower is better. If the ramp is too steep, chickens may slip, struggle for balance, or avoid it altogether—especially in wet or muddy conditions.

An angle under 45° works best, with rungs (cleats) spaced every 4–6 inches. If the ladder is too steep, raising the bottom with a concrete block can reduce the slope.

My chickens won’t use the ladder—what should I do?
Some chickens may ignore it entirely, but most can be trained. The easiest time to introduce a ladder is when chickens are first learning a new coop.

Scattering feed along the ladder for several days encourages exploration and helps establish the habit. Patience helps. Some birds take longer than others.


Precautions

These ladders are made of pine wood and have NOT been sealed or painted. To maximize longevity, use a waterproof wood sealant or paint prior to using outside.

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    $71.00
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    $250.00
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Average Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 5 out of 5
Number of reviews: 5 customers reviewed this product.
Recommended: 5 out of 5 said they would recommend this product to a friend.

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Chicken Coop Ladders
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
August 14, 2026

Erika K from California

This chicken ladder was exactly what I needed to help my hens reach their elevated run. I bought a metal ladder on Amazon, but the hens hated it. This wood ladder is the perfect size and very chicken-friendly. They had zero hesitation using it.

Chicken Coop Ladders
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
July 15, 2026

Dawn W from Maryland

This chicken ladder was perfect for my run-to-coop access. You can't beat the price. I ordered a spare and may order another so my chickens can easily reach their nesting boxes. Basic but well made and easy to put up with the predrilled holes and provided hardware.

Chicken Coop Ladders
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
June 25, 2026

Dawn W from Maryland

This is a great chicken ladder, especially for the price. Some similar items were 3x the cost. The chickens started using it right away to get into their coop and often like to roost on it as well.

Chicken Coop Ladders
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
February 25, 2026

Penelope N from Texas

Worked perfectly. Seems made well. I expect it to last.

Chicken Coop Ladders
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
February 24, 2026

Sandy M from Virginia

This chicken ladder worked out perfectly.

About Conductivity

Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.

Tinned Copper Superconductor

Many of Premier’s electric net fences feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity.

These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than “basic” nets offered by our competitors. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.

Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen nets from China or their farmstore equivalents.

Types of Line Posts

Line posts are built into the net. Four options are available.*

Line Posts Compared
  1. Single Spike (SS)
    The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard
  2. Double Spike (DS)
    Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove
  3. Step-in Wedge (SW)
    Combines the easy insertion of a single-spike post with the stability of a double-spike post
  4. Drivable Posts (DP)
    Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength

Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.

* Not all fences have all line post options.

About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets

Is your area dry?

Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.

Dry soil increases resistance—a weaker, less effective pulse occurs that does not deter animals.

To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.

How it works…

In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.

Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.

* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.

Line Post Spacing

“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between built-in line posts*

Line Post Spacing

Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between built-in line posts*

* Spacings are approximate.
Distance between built-in line posts may vary by product.

Essential Energizer Advice

  • Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.
  • Use a low-impedance intermittent pulse energizer.
  • Use a fence tester to check the voltage often.
  • Use enough ground rod(s)—included with our energizer kits.
  • Don’t allow your lead acid battery to discharge below 40%.
  • Use insulated wire that is designed for electric fences.
  • Always connect the fence to an energizer, not an outlet.
  • Visit this link for answers to other common energizer questions.

Two Basic Types

  1. All-in-one Solar
    • Solar units are very portable.
    • Because they need a battery, these units are more costly to purchase and operate than plug-in units.
    • Batteries are less effective in cold temperatures (deplete faster).
    • Most farmstore solar units are too weak, in joules of output, to properly energize netting. That’s why we designed our own.
  2. Plug-in & Battery
    • Least cost to purchase and operate per joule of output.
    • Best for fences exposed to heavy vegetation.
    • Cold temperatures do not affect performance.
    • Recommended for whole-farm systems, but can be complex to install. Higher output requires more ground rods, underground cables, multiple output terminals, etc.

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Dan Morrical

Dr. Dan Morrical, Ph.D.
Premier 1 Supplies

Dan Morrical joined the Iowa State University staff in 1984 as Extension Sheep Specialist after completing his doctorate degree at New Mexico State University. He held the rank of Full Professor as of July 1, 1995 and retired from full-time teaching in 2017.

While at Iowa State University, Dr. Dan Morrical was responsible for educational programs in all areas of sheep production, ranging from nutrition, genetics, marketing and management. Research areas focused on applied projects in the areas of nutrition, forage utilization, genetics, out-of-season breeding and lamb survival.

Dr. Morrical has been heavily involved in providing educational resources to the sheep industry. He has authored over 30 extension fact sheets, ration balancing software programs, grazing videos and co-authored the nutrition chapter of the SID Handbook with Dr. Margaret Benson from Washington State University.

Dr. Morrical now serves as Premier’s on-staff small ruminant nutritionist and sheep production advisor. Most recently, he’s introduced a line of “GOLD FORMULA” mineral premixes under The Shepherd’s Choice® brand, aimed to maximize hoof health and immunity.

Braided vs. Twisted

Braiding instead of twisting the horizontals increases the frequency of metal filaments on the outside of the strand.

Braided vs. Twisted Electric Net Fences

What’s the benefit?

  1. More metal is exposed on the outside of the strand. This enables improved animal to conductor contact. The electric pulse is better able to travel from the fence and into the animal, resulting in a memorable shock.
  2. A tighter, braided weave results in fewer snags when carried or pulled through pastures, reducing frustration.

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Note from the manufacturer of BioWorma®

At this time, we will NOT be able to supply any BioWorma or Livamol with BioWorma in the foreseeable future—this is about as frustrating as it gets and all I can do is apologize to you and ultimately our very supportive customers.

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Due to ongoing supply constraints, this item is currently unavailable and may not be restocked. We’re unable to provide an estimated in-stock date or confirm future availability. We appreciate your patience and apologize for the inconvenience.