Heat Lamp Bulbs
- The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.
- Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.
Smooth Glass Infrared Bulbs
- “Never-loose” base
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt (Premier's choice) or 250 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Pressed Glass (PAR) Infrared Bulbs - While Supplies Last!
Surprisingly strong glass. Their heft (and performance) have given us confidence in their warming ability on cold winter nights.
- “Never-loose” base (See PDF file above for a side-by-side comparison.)
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
- Turn off (unplug) the lamp when not in use.
- Use a ThermoCube to turn the lamp on/off based on ambient temperature.
- Carry the lamps with care. This reduces damage to the bulb. Don’t carry multiple lamps by the cord allowing them to “bang around.”
- Don’t hose off or power-wash the lamp when the bulb is in place.
- Don’t enclose the lamp. Heat will build up and degrade both the lamp and the bulb.
- To help reduce pecking with your birds, use a red colored bulb.
“Never-loose” base—they don’t use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose under normal use, we will replace at no cost!
Other bulbs are attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.
PAR (pressed glass) bulbs are stronger, but because of their weight, they are more prone to separating from the base when repeated jostling occurs.
Non-PAR bulbs shatter more easily when jostled, but are less likely to separate from the base.
Please see CAUTION photo above. Never lay a heat lamp (of any make or manufacture) on straw or any other flammable surface—for any length of time.
Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.
- Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.
- Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.
Please read this note regarding purchase of pressed glass bulbs (items #557034 or #557035).
A customer has reported problems screwing PAR (pressed glass) heat lamp bulbs into our heat lamp fixtures—so we’ve studied this in detail.
We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).
Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.
Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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Beverly C from Wisconsin
These bulbs (both 175W and 250W) live up to the hype. Although I haven't used the ones from my recent purchase, I am still using the ones from last year. With the old heat bulbs purchased at the local hardware store, I would burn thru several of them per season. The bulb would separate from the screw part and be dangling, at risk of falling out. SO I tried these bulbs and that problem is solved. SOOOO much safer. And they last and last and last. Got through an entire bad winter on one bulb which has never happened and I have had chickens for 26 years.
Allyson M from New York
Mort T from Massachusetts
The lamp assembly is of high quality, not the usual stamped tin for $10 bucks where you plug and pray! On those the hood gets so hot the concern of fire is paramount!
This lamp is high quality high temp plastics, no heat to be transferred from the bulb to the hood assy. Others recommend the transformer heat panels. Perhaps if you plug it in a week before your chick arrival! A hot water bottle would work too - I guess! Placing any heat generated item near combustibles is always a risk, you alleviate those risks, and this assembly is a no risk at all!
Louise G from Minnesota
As some others have mentioned, these pricey, heavyweight, underpowered heat bulbs separated from their bases within a very short time.
We have sheep - with big horns. They are NOT kind to anything, not even the pole barn they're housed in. Within 3 weeks, one had died. In about another 3 weeks, the other one died. Both had simply fallen out of the metal base. Did the glue fail? Did our critters batter the Prima Heat Lamp too much? I have no way of telling. However, I *CAN* say there was no evidence of arcing (as was suggested in one of the fixture reviews), no evidence, and even of adhesive on the base. The fixture showed no apparent evidence of abuse, which truthfully might be a testimony for the Prima fixture.
Granted, Minnesota made national news for it's cold temps this winter, but 175w simply could NOT handle the cold - even when it was moderate. When I replaced the dead pressed glass bulbs with the uber-cheap bulbs from the big-box-hardware store (@250w) the critters were happier, and even with the increased heat, they did NOT fail for the rest of the winter (so far).
No, thank you, I would NOT like a replacement on these bulbs.
Kendra C from Arkansas
These are the best heat lamp bulbs I have ever found. The base never comes loose, and they last a very long time. They are heavy duty, and are perfect with the Prima Heat Lamps, which are also the best. I stock up on these every year, and will not buy other bulbs. They are not worth it.