Heat Lamp Bulbs
Surprisingly strong glass. Their heft (and performance) have given us confidence in their warming ability on cold winter nights.
- “Never-loose” base (See PDF file above for a side-by-side comparison.)
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Smooth Glass Infrared Bulbs
- “Never-loose” base
- Red or clear glass
- 175 watt (Premier's choice) or 250 watt. Sold/priced in packages of 2.
Conventional infrared lamps are cheap—but they usually fail within a month or two. Why?
- The base breaks away from the glass bulb because the high temperature causes the cheap adhesive to degrade.
- Both glass and filament are so fragile that minimal impact shatters them.
- Turn off (unplug) the lamp when not in use.
- Use a ThermoCube to turn the lamp on/off based on ambient temperature.
- Carry the lamps with care. This reduces damage to the bulb. Don’t carry multiple lamps by the cord allowing them to “bang around.”
- Don’t hose off or power-wash the lamp when the bulb is in place.
- Don’t enclose the lamp. Heat will build up and degrade both the lamp and the bulb.
- To help reduce pecking with your birds, use a red colored bulb.
“Never-loose” base—they don’t use cement adhesive. Instead, the base screws into the bulb. A weld of solder holds the base onto the threads. If a never-loose base ever becomes loose under normal use, we will replace at no cost!
Other bulbs are attached with cement adhesive. Heat causes the cement to lose its adhesive property. The base then breaks away from the bulb.
PAR (pressed glass) bulbs are stronger, but because of their weight, they are more prone to separating from the base when repeated jostling occurs.
Non-PAR bulbs shatter more easily when jostled, but are less likely to separate from the base.
Please see CAUTION photo above. Never lay a heat lamp (of any make or manufacture) on straw or any other flammable surface—for any length of time.
Why do we show you this? Because we included this photo on p. 60 of our 2011 “Equipment That Works!” catalog and p. 16 on our Poultry flyer—and we regret doing so. To prevent any incident (there has been none to our knowledge) we felt we should show you this as a cautionary note.
- Do not use bulbs rated higher that 250w.
- Use quality bulbs as some low quality bulbs have broken off leaving the metal filament in the ceramic fixture.
Please read this note regarding purchase of items #557034 or #557035.
A customer has reported problems screwing PAR (pressed glass) heat lamp bulbs into our orange heat lamp fixtures—so we’ve studied this in detail.
We have concluded that, because the PAR bulbs feel so sturdy and unbreakable in the hand (which they are), some users (including myself) are inclined to screw them in with more hand strength than they use for normal heat lamp bulbs (which are fragile and feel that way).
Using too much strength to tighten the bulbs doesn’t damage the bulbs—but it does deform the brass colored metal inside the ceramic fixtures of our heat lamps.
Mild deformation due to over tightening makes it difficult to screw bulbs in and out of the fixture. Major deformation due to over tightening can flatten the metal so much that the bulb can actually fall out.
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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David E from Ohio
Bulbs are good but one was broken.
Deb F from Iowa
Bought this heat lamp just prior to -40 temps this winter for "barn cats" that live in our unheated garage. They loved it!
Heidi B from Michigan
High quality. I have had the lamp on 24/7 through the storm 2019 that included record cold temps below zero. Works great!
Kraig G from Minnesota
The bulbs are much heavier than conventional heat bulbs, but they are also producing much more heat than I expected. My baby goat really likes it as do the other goats near by.
Rosann T from New Jersey
Much much better and safer than the old type of bulbs. Heavier.