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Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System

Product Details

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★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Read reviews »

Controlled-angle system allows users to guide sharpening stones over knife blades while maintaining a desired angle.

Easy-to-use system is intuitive for beginners, relied upon by advanced users.

Features:

  • Five (5) hone grits (extra coarse, coarse, medium, fine, ultra-fine) for shaping dull blades to a highly sharpened polish
  • Four (4) sharpening angles to match your intended use, from heavy cardboard cutting to a razor’s edge
  • Clamp secures knife and precisely controls sharpening angle for a reliable finish

  • Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System

    Item #958127 | Weight 1.40 lbs
    In Stock
    $67.95
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Lansky Controlled-Angle Sharpening System Play
Lansky Controlled-Angle Sharpening System

Benefits

Select the sharpening angles that are best suited for your knife's intended use. The four sharpening angles and their uses are listed below:
  • 17° Angle - A severe angle recommended for razor blades, fillet knives or similar tools. An extremely sharp but delicate edge.
  • 20° Angle - A commonly used angle for higher quality blades and provides an excellent edge for kitchen cutlery and slicing knives.
  • 25° Angle - The recommended angle for most knives that need a durable, sharp edge. Ideal for hunting and outdoor knives.
  • 30° Angle - An outstanding angle for knives that cut cardboard, rope or carpets. Recommended for heavy duty use.


Specs

  • 1 oz honing oil, specially formulated for sharpening
  • Easy to use, multi-angle clamp: to hold the blade securely
  • Guide Rods: One for every hone (5)
  • Storage case
  • Made in the USA

Hone Grit Color
Extra Coarse 70 Black
Coarse 120 Red
Medium 280 Green
Fine 600 Blue
Ultra-Fine Ceramic 1000 Yellow


How to Use

If blade is 7” or less in length

  1. Position the clamp in the middle of the blade.
  2. After sharpening, flip the clamp (and blade) over.
  3. Repeat the sharpening process on the unsharpened side.

If blade is greater than 7” in length

  1. Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade. (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.)
  2. When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp. The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone. Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade.
  3. Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade.
  4. When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers.
  5. Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes. Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps
  6. between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished.

Hone selection

  • Always progress through the hones in order of decreasing coarseness—that is, start with a coarser hone and work your way down to the finest.
  • The hone you begin with will vary depending on what type of sharpening you want to do.
  • For aggressive sharpening tasks, such as changing the angle of a blade or sharpening a very dull edge, begin with the coarsest hone in your kit (coarse or extra-coarse), and then progress through medium, fine, etc.
  • For lighter-duty sharpening jobs, like angle maintenance or general “touch-up” work, begin with the medium hone.

Sharpening strokes

  • For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.

Remember

  • Always sharpen into the blade (perpendicular not parallel)!
  • It is important that you use approximately the same amount of strokes for each target sharpening zone, as this will help ensure a uniformly sharpened blade.

Oil usage

  • Standard hones included in this kit (Alumina Oxide): Do not require oiling however you will note as you sharpen, that the stones will begin to move more smoothly. This indicates pores of the stones may be clogging with filings, which reduces the effectiveness of the stone. Clean by putting a few drops of oil on the hone. The oil will lift the metal shavings off the stone’s surface where they can be wiped away with a rag.

Pressure

  • When using the coarse hone, apply a generous amount of pressure. As you move to the medium and fine hones, use less pressure.

Finishing up

  • If when you have finished, the edge is still not as sharp as you would like, continue polishing the blade with your fine hone.
  • If you have a single-sided or serrated blade, drag your fine hone down the length of the non-sharpened side a few times to clean off any stray metallic burrs that may have accumulated during sharpening.
  • Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest!


Precautions

Knife sharpening is an inherently dangerous activity. Read instructions before attempting to use this product. Used properly this sharpening system cannot hurt you but a carelessly handled blade or pointed object can.

  • Poultry Sticker Knife
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    Poultry Sticker Knife

    Item #540381 - In Stock

    Use this carbon steel (quick to take an edge) knife to cut the bird's jugular during processing.

    $24.00
  • Poultry Processing Kit
    Processing Products

    Poultry Processing Kit

    Item #540380 - Back-ordered: Expected on 05/09/2025

    Process your own chickens with this kit. Includes cone, knife and shackle.

    $129.00
Average Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 5 out of 5
Number of reviews: 1 customers reviewed this product.
Recommended: 1 out of 1 said they would recommend this product to a friend.

Write a Review

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Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
July 24, 2023

Elizabeth S from Texas

Beginner friendly. Dummy proof sharpening. I was trying to find someone to sharpen my hand tools, and instead I found out how to do it myself. I’ve used this kit on hedge trimmers, goat hoof trimmers, tree loppers, and of course knives. This is worth the cost in every way. I feel confident and capable.

About Conductivity

Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.

Tinned Copper Superconductor

Many of Premier’s electric net fences feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity.

These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than “basic” nets offered by our competitors. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.

Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen nets from China or their farmstore equivalents.

Types of Line Posts

Line posts are built into the net. Three options are available.*

Line Posts Compared
  1. Single Spike (SS)
    The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard.
  2. Double Spike (DS)
    Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove.
  3. Drivable Posts (DP)
    Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength.

Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.

* Not all fences have all line post options.

About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets

Is your area dry?

Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.

Dry soil increases resistance—a weaker, less effective pulse occurs that does not deter animals.

To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.

How it works…

In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.

Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.

* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.

Line Post Spacing

“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between built-in line posts*

Line Post Spacing

Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between built-in line posts*

* Spacings are approximate.
Distance between built-in line posts may vary by product.

Essential Energizer Advice

  • Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.
  • Use a low-impedance intermittent pulse energizer.
  • Use a fence tester to check the voltage often.
  • Use enough ground rod(s)—included with our energizer kits.
  • Don’t allow your lead acid battery to discharge below 40%.
  • Use insulated wire that is designed for electric fences.
  • Always connect the fence to an energizer, not an outlet.
  • Visit this link for answers to other common energizer questions.

Two Basic Types

  1. All-in-one Solar
    • Solar units are very portable.
    • Because they need a battery, these units are more costly to purchase and operate than plug-in units.
    • Batteries are less effective in cold temperatures (deplete faster).
    • Most farmstore solar units are too weak, in joules of output, to properly energize netting. That’s why we designed our own.
  2. Plug-in & Battery
    • Least cost to purchase and operate per joule of output.
    • Best for fences exposed to heavy vegetation.
    • Cold temperatures do not affect performance.
    • Recommended for whole-farm systems, but can be complex to install. Higher output requires more ground rods, underground cables, multiple output terminals, etc.

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Dan Morrical

Dr. Dan Morrical, Ph.D.
Premier 1 Supplies

Dan Morrical joined the Iowa State University staff in 1984 as Extension Sheep Specialist after completing his doctorate degree at New Mexico State University. He held the rank of Full Professor as of July 1, 1995 and retired from full-time teaching in 2017.

While at Iowa State University, Dr. Dan Morrical was responsible for educational programs in all areas of sheep production, ranging from nutrition, genetics, marketing and management. Research areas focused on applied projects in the areas of nutrition, forage utilization, genetics, out-of-season breeding and lamb survival.

Dr. Morrical has been heavily involved in providing educational resources to the sheep industry. He has authored over 30 extension fact sheets, ration balancing software programs, grazing videos and co-authored the nutrition chapter of the SID Handbook with Dr. Margaret Benson from Washington State University.

Dr. Morrical now serves as Premier’s on-staff small ruminant nutritionist and sheep production advisor. Most recently, he’s introduced a line of “GOLD FORMULA” mineral premixes under The Shepherd’s Choice® brand, aimed to maximize hoof health and immunity.

Braided vs. Twisted

Braiding instead of twisting the horizontals increases the frequency of metal filaments on the outside of the strand.

Braided vs. Twisted Electric Net Fences

What’s the benefit?

  1. More metal is exposed on the outside of the strand. This enables improved animal to conductor contact. The electric pulse is better able to travel from the fence and into the animal, resulting in a memorable shock.
  2. A tighter, braided weave results in fewer snags when carried or pulled through pastures, reducing frustration.

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Note from the manufacturer of BioWorma®

At this time, we will NOT be able to supply any BioWorma or Livamol with BioWorma in the foreseeable future—this is about as frustrating as it gets and all I can do is apologize to you and ultimately our very supportive customers.

Chris Lawlor
International Animal Health

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Due to supply constraints, we are unable to provide an estimated in-stock date for this item. We appreciate your patience and apologize for the inconvenience.