Ram Shields
Product Details
Protect yourself and animals. Rams can injure each other during breeding season. The Ram Shield is so effective in subduing belligerent rams that it surprises first time “users” (both the ram and the shepherd).
Ram shields are used to block the ram’s forward vision—which prevents rams from charging humans or other rams. Side vision is not affected so the rams can still eat, graze, breed and drink. We use shields only as needed and remove them when the fight “urge” is over.
Horned shields fit over the horns.
Polled shields rely on the ears and head shape to hold its position.
Common Uses
Specs
Small—Cheviot, Finn, IceLandic, Katadin, Navajo Churro, Romanov and Shetland.
Large—Border Leicester, Columbia, Corriedale, Dorper, Dorset, Hampshire, Lincoln Longwool, Montadale, Polypay, Rambouillet, Romney, Southdown, Suffolk, Targhee, Texel and Tunis.
Dimensions | Back | Nose | Length | Eye Width | Horn Strap | Nose Strap | Ear Hole |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Horned, small | 7" | 5" | 5" | 12" | 5" | n/a | |
Horned, large | 9.25" | 7.5" | 8.5" | 11" | 9" | n/a | |
Polled, small | 5.75" | 5" | 10.5" | 8" | n/a | n/a | 10" |
Polled, large | 6.5" | 8" | 11" | 10.5" | n/a | n/a | 12.5" |
Note: Colors may vary.
How to Use
Horned Ram Shield:
- Lay ram shield against the ram's face.
- Thread top straps through loops on each side of shield.
- Fasten buckles around chin and around throat and pull straps very snug.
Polled Ram Shield:
- Thread top strap through loop on each side of shield, to form a space for the ram's ear to fit through.
- Place shield against the ram's face.
- Insert ears into spaces between straps.
- Fasten buckles around chin and around throat, and pull straps very snug.
Adjusting or modifying the shield: Getting a good fit is not always easy, because every ram's head is different. A shield can be adjusted and modified (see photos and instructions above) within limits. The depth that you cut will depend on how wide your particular ram's head is. (Remember: You want to block the forward vision, not the side vision. Start with small cuts, and then increase if the eyes are still blocked from the side.)
Our Premier Serrated Foot Trimmer and ARS Hoof Trimmer work well for cutting the leather. Remember: Start small with your cuts, and then increase if the eyes are still blocked from the side. You want to block the forward vision, not the side vision.
See instructions above for additional information.
Precautions
Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.
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Sweet Chestnut Wooden Neck Crook
Item #804100 -Wooden neck crook preferred for herding dog trials. Light in hand. Nearly essential for herding sheep.
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The "Premier" Fiberglass Crook
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$31.50 -
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Blue Leg Aluminum Crook
Item #803001 -Leg crooks are best for goats because goats prefer to face you--so if you wish to catch them in a pen, it works best to do so by snagging a front foot.
$30.50 -
Crooks
Aluminum Leg Crook (head only)
Item #803000 -An effective leg crook head (wooden or fiberglass shaft, not included) used for grabbing either the front or rear legs of sheep or goats.
$13.50
Write a Review
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Jessica L from Louisiana
Pretty easy to get on once you figure it out. I like that the shield itself is leather so I can trim sides if needed. But the sizing is hard to get right when ordering. We have a normal size American Blackbelly and a large is really too big but works ok when tightened all the way down. They can't get it off and doesn't seem to increase rubbing on fence post. This shield will not fix ramming 100 percent but does help. Usually now he charges and stops short a few feet out from his target. When he does ram it's at walking pace. Need to give him time to adjust before you leave because ours ran into a few fence post at first just freaking out for the first few minutes. All and all I think the best bet is just to segregate rams. We were trying to avoid it with our limited space. I do think it is worth the money when you can't segregate.
Debby P from Texas
Be sure to check SIZE CHART—it lists the breed and suggested size. I bought a large for my Katahdin because it seemed like he had a big head but it was TOO big. The chart suggest a small.
Jenny R from Minnesota
Super service! I ordered large for my alpine doe who likes to kill other goats and large was way to big! I believe it would have fit my Suffolk ram though. I called and actually got real people who were super nice and helpful! I now have a small on its way!!!!
Lorene S from California
The shield works really well with the aggressive rams. We have montadales and the large size does fit but they figured out how to get the shield off in about week. We now put collars on the rams and use 2 small nylon straps on each side of the shield by the ears to attach the shield to the collar. So far that has worked with the rare times a ram has been able to get the shield down below his eyes. Then he looks like a bandit and generally the ewes stay away from him. We have found that we have to leave the shield on for longer times (3 weeks or more) when we put the rams together.
Sheridan F from Kentucky
I have two rams, one a Katahdin and a White Dorper. I bought the large polled ram shields because the Katahdin's head is about the same size as the Dorper's and there are a number of reviews that state the small is too small for a Katahdin and the large is what is recommended for the Dorper. The large is too large for either, the problem is in the length of the face shield, which cannot be shortened without taking the thing apart and re-sewing it. I ordered the small shield so hopefully it will fit. It might be helpful to measure your rams head from the top of the corner of his eye to about an inch up from the corner of his mouth (as shown in the diagram provided for putting the shield on your ram) to find out just how long his head is. Other than the sizing problem, the product looks well-made.