HotShock 5 (Plug-In) Energizer Kit

HotShock 5

• Peak output: 0.5 joules
• Pulses per minute: 38
• 110 AC draw: 1 watt per hour
• 12v DC draw: 46 mA/hr. With this energizer a 12v 100 ampere hour, deep cycle battery will last approximately 54 days* on a clean or a weedy fence. *Assumes being drawn down to 40% between recharges.
• Includes: 12v battery leads and 110v adapter
• Impedance type: low
• Should power 1 mile of 3 strand cattle fence, 1/2 mile of a 5-7 strand sheep fence, 6 of the 164' sheep/goat nets and 3 of the 164' poultry nets. All distances are dependent on amount of grass/weed load on the fence.

Kit includes:

• HotShock 5 Energizer
• 100 ft insulated wire
• 3 ft ground rod
• 5-light fence tester

5-light tester: Low cost way to make sure you have enough volts on the fence to keep animals in and predators out.

Ground rod and clamp: Galvanized rod does not rust or corrode.

100 ft MaxiShock single insulated cable: It's extra-thick layer of galvanized zinc will protect the connection from rusting for years. Unlike normal insulated fence wire, MaxiShock insulated cable does not require special connectors.

1. Connect insulated cable (stripped back 1 - 2" on ends) to the fence terminal on energizer, run the cable to the fence line and connect, or use the positive part of the Wiring Harness, not included.
2. Then run a second length of cable from the ground terminal (with ends stripped again) on the energizer to the ground rod, or use the negative part of the Wiring Harness, not included.
3. Secure to ground rod with a clamp.
4. Plug into outlet and test fence.

Ground rod and clamp

1. Allow 3 ft of rod per joule of energy released.
2. Use multiple 6 ft rods for large energizers and 3 ft rods for smaller energizers (and lightning diverters).
3. Make sure to put the ground rod all the way into the ground.
4. To attach ground wire, strip the coating off the wire 1" - 2" and make an elongated "U" in the wire.
5. Put the "U" against the rod and put the clamp around it. Tighten.

100 ft MaxiShock single insulated cable

• Make sure the energizer is unplugged before working on the fence or the energizer.
• When using a 12v deep cycle battery, there is no case to protect the battery, so the battery will be exposed to the elements and risk of theft.

Ground rod and clamp: When installing more than one ground rod, space the ground rods apart 2 feet longer than the rod. Example 3' rods should be spaced 5' apart.

To Reduce Risk & Liability

• Never place your head or upper spine near an electrified wire. Accidental head or neck contact can occur when pushing a voltage probe into the soil. Be careful when doing so to avoid head-to-wire contact!
• Never attempt to step over or climb through an energized fence of any kind.
• Never encourage anyone to touch an electric fence.

HotShock 5

1. Test the energizer first
2. Turn off energizer.
3. Disconnect ground wire and the fence wire.
4. Turn energizer back on.
5. With fence tester, put the ground probe (or clamp) to the ground terminal on the energizer and the metal loop (or positive clamp) at the top of the tester to the fence/positive terminal. The reading you get tells you how well the energizer is working without any other variables. If there is a very low voltage (under 4000v) or no voltage, then the energizer may have a problem. If the voltage is high (greater than 4000v) then the trouble lies with your fence. Most energizers put out between 5000v and 8000v when there is no load (i.e. no fence hooked up).

1. Check that the 110v outlet is "live" by using a plug-in drill or test light.
2. If the test light works and the energizer does not, call Premier.

If the energizer is faulty and you are using it as a battery unit you need to learn if the battery or the energizer is the problem…

1. If it's a 12 volt energizer carry the unit to a nearby vehicle and attach the input cords carefully to the vehicle's battery.
2. If the energizer now works, then your fencer's battery needs to be recharged or replaced.
3. If the energizer does not work, then you should call Premier re. repairs.

If the fence is at fault, then you must find the fault(s) and fix them. Here's how to start this process:
If you have a Fault Finder you can simply touch the fence with the Fault Finder at various points along the electric fence(s). The Fault Finder will tell you at each point which direction to go in to locate the problem. Move in that direction testing as you go and you will arrive at the problem.

If you lack a Fault Finder…

1. Walk or drive along the fence looking for any point in which the energized wires touch the soil, a steel post or a steel wire. On HT wire fences, check the wires at braces to see if they are touching a hot wire. On netting, look for a hot wire touching the metal stake at the bottom of the plastic posts. Also look for damaged insulators.
2. If the fence can be separated into several parts (by switches or by disconnecting parts of it), you can locate the problem by beginning at the far end and then progressively turn off or disconnect the sections of fence. When the voltage on the remaining fence rises sharply, you've located the section(s) that's causing the problems.
3. The alternative to (2.) is to begin at the fencer and progressively turn on sections of the fence. When the voltage suddenly drops you can assume that the problem is in the section most recently connected.

• Make sure that the probe has not become separated from the black insulated wire.
• Cup your hands around the body of the tester to keep the sun's glare off the lights of the tester.

• Make sure to have the ground rod all the way into the ground
• Make sure you have a good connection to the ground rod
• Make sure to have a good connection on the energizer and fence