Upgrading Existing Fences
Energized strands can either be added to or replace existing wire strands. The result isn’t as pretty as a brand-new fence. But it does work. And it’s far less costly than tearing out the old and replacing it with new.
Advantages
- Low cost per ft.
- Quick. No need to buy or install new posts. Can be done in a few hours.
- Simple. Doesn't require a contractor.
- Needs no special tools.
- Energized strands can act as "feeder wires" for temporary cross fences.
Achieved by simply adding a “live” strand of rope (our preference due to its visibility), HT wire or MaxiShock to existing permanent wire fences.
The added “hot” wires keep predators and livestock from leaning on or attempting to pass through or over the existing fence.
The strands are supported by insulators that hold the strand 6"-8" away (offset) from the existing fence.
Offset energized wires also prevent sheep and goats from rubbing fences or attempting to put their heads through fences—which extends fence life and saves animals from injury or death (meaningful for those who have removed a sheep or goat whose head was entrapped by a woven wire fence).
Cost
Cost is driven by the number and type of strands.
Points To Consider
- Number of strands. Best to keep them as few as possible to allow animals to graze under them.
- Spacing of insulators. In the inset photo at right, attaching one every other post was all that was necessary.
To Install
Attach an insulator at both end posts and as many insulators as the situation requires to keep the energized strand the same distance away from the existing fence and the soil. Tension rope and MaxiShock hand-tight—and HT wire twice that. Use insulated cable buried underground to cross gateways. It's useful, but not essential, to install switches at end posts.
You will need an energizer for this fence. Please refer to the Energizer section to determine your needs or refer to our energizer comparison chart.
About Conductivity
Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.
Many of Premier’s nets feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity. These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than our “basic” nets. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.
We do not recommended the basic nets listed below for fences exceeding 500 ft in length:
Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen one of these or their farmstore equivalents. Why do we offer them? Because they are similar in design and conductivity (380 ohms) to nets from our competitors—and comparisons make decisions easier.
Types of Line Posts
Line posts are built into the net. Three options are available.*
- Single Spike (SS)
The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard.
- Double Spike (DS)
Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove.
- Drivable Posts (DP)
Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength.
Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.
* Not all fences have all line post options.
About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets
Is your area dry?
Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.
Dry soil increases resistance—a weaker, less effective pulse occurs that does not deter animals.
To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.
How it works…
In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.
Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.
* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.
Line Post Spacing
“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between line posts
Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between line posts
Essential Energizer Advice
- Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.
- Use a low-impedance intermittent pulse energizer.
- Use a fence tester to check the voltage often.
- Use enough ground rod(s)—included with our energizer kits.
- Don’t allow your lead acid battery to discharge below 40%.
- Use insulated wire that is designed for electric fences.
- Always connect the fence to an energizer, not an outlet.
- Visit this link for answers to other common energizer questions.
Two Basic Types
- All-in-one Solar
- Solar units are very portable.
- Because they need a battery, these units are more costly to purchase and operate than plug-in units.
- Batteries are less effective in cold temperatures (deplete faster).
- Most farmstore solar units are too weak, in joules of output, to properly energize netting. That’s why we designed our own.
- Plug-in & Battery
- Least cost to purchase and operate per joule of output.
- Best for fences exposed to heavy vegetation.
- Cold temperatures do not affect performance.
- Recommended for whole-farm systems, but can be complex to install. Higher output requires more ground rods, underground cables, multiple output terminals, etc.
We offer many fences to fit your situation, including different heights and lengths, multiple colors, drivable posts and positive/negative options for dry soils. Questions? Call our fence consultants at 800-282-6631 for expert advice.
Precautions
Electric fence is a pain barrier, not a physical barrier. A common mistake is not electrifying it. Animals may escape or become entangled (and may die). On a % basis, entanglement is very rare, but it can and does occur. If animals are scared or starved it will not keep them in. The first time you put the animals in the net, you should be available to watch them for a while. That way if one were to get into the fence and get caught, you can turn the power off and get them loose.
Warning! Due to risk of fire, do NOT use continuous output energizers with electric netting or electro-plastic conductors such as rope, twine or tape. Use only with a low or wide impedance intermittent pulse energizer. (Fi-Shock™ brand energizers which are sold as low impedance, continuous current output should NOT be used with electric netting.) All energizers sold on Premier’s website use an intermittent pulse and are suitable for use with electric netting.
Dry conditions and wintertime usage may reduce the effectiveness of electric fencing. Ice and heavy snow can flatten netting and thereby damage it.
Dry or frozen ground may cause post spikes to bend or break if inserted with force. Pilot holes may be needed. We recommend using drivable or single spike posts in hard soils. Double spike posts provide more stability when the ground is soft.
